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Elements of a Still Life Painting

A Step-by-Step from Sheldon Tapley

Reposted from https://www.artistsnetwork.com/art-mediums/oil-painting/elements-of-a-still-life-painting-a-step-by-step-from-sheldon-tapley/

With theatrical splendor, Sheldon Tapley celebrates excess, reinventing the still life tradition by incorporating the figure and complicating the design. Here, he gives instruction on the elements of a still life painting.

From Simplicity to Complication: Elements of a Still Life Painting
By Sheldon Tapley

1. Transferring the Drawing: I usually begin with a drawing (not shown here), which I transfer, using Saral transfer paper, to the primed aluminum laminate panel. I brush transparent red oxide thinly over the transferred lines and let them dry.

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  1. Blocking In: I use a hog bristle bright brush to scrub in a thin, flat layer of color. If the paint doesn’t flow easily, I add a drop of mineral spirits.

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  1. Choosing One Area: I choose one area, usually a key object in the composition and, using bristle brushes, add detail to it. This is just a first pass, so I avoid getting too detailed. For this piece, I made some of the edges on the table with a ruler; other edges, like those on the gourd, I kept soft. If the paint doesn’t flow easily enough, I add a drop of M. Graham walnut alkyd medium. At this point, I wouldn’t use mineral spirits in the paint because mineral spirits can dissolve the binder.

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4. Developing One Area: I worked up the gourd in greater detail; I added its shadow and developed the background around it. I wanted to see the character of the gourd clearly before I progressed to other areas.

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  1. Establishing the Quality of Light: Still undecided about how to handle the light coming in from the window, I wondered whether I should include the shadow cast on the wall by the window wall. Eventually, I did, but here I was thinking that the table and objects should be suffused with light. I applied the green paint of the background wall generously; then blended it to a flat surface using large, soft, badger brushes. I allowed the light to flood across the edge of the pitcher to avoid building up thick paint at the boundary of the object.

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  1. Developing Another Object: The flat, blocked-in pitcher became a three-dimensional object and acquired a shadow to attach it to the table plane.

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  1. Within the Reflection: I worked up the table and the pitcher in greater detail. The reflection of Danville’s Main Street in the pitcher was so clear that it was like watching a little movie. I began to wonder if I was crazy to try to paint the scene! What you see here, the scene in the reflection, is the result of many tries.

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  1. Making It Complex: I decided that the composition would benefit from including the shadow on the right part of the back wall. I described, too, the wall surface in greater detail. My initial plan, to make a simple design emphasizing two forms on the table, gave way to my persistent need for complication: I added a piece of rope.

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  1. Adding Elements: A rope needs scissors! Not everything in a still life has to fit together thematically, but this juxtaposition is one I often enjoy painting. Also, I love the form of these scissors. The plastic handles have a dynamic, subtle design, as if the designer had been looking at Brancusi or Noguchi. I drew the scissors with blue-gray paint thinned with M. Graham walnut alkyd medium because I was impatient to finish and I wanted these last stages to dry quickly.

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  1. Making Modifications: I was dissatisfied with the right edge of the pitcher, where the dust on it caught very strong light. I’d reworked this difficult passage so much that there was a distracting ridge built up along the contour of the pitcher, so I sanded the area gently with 600-grit sandpaper, as a prelude to reworking it with smoother paint. The scissors were nearly done; the cast shadows of the gourd and scissors would become more intensely warm.
“Dust” (oil on aluminum laminate panel, 16×20) by Sheldon Tapley
“Dust” (oil on aluminum laminate panel, 16×20) by Sheldon Tapley

11. Seeking Transparency: Some of the last layers were glazes, in which I used more medium to allow transparency in colors like the blues and purples of the pitcher in Dust (oil on aluminum laminate panel, 16×20).

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Steps in Painting Landscapes

Materials

  • An easel
  • A canvas
  • Paints
  • A filbert brush
  • Water
  • A jar
  • Rags
  • A palette
  • A pencil
  • And a sketchpad

Steps

Step 1

Choose your paint

Choose if you want to work in oil, acrylic or watercolor. Whatever you decide, choose the appropriate paints for your medium.

Step 2

Get a filbert brush

Leave all of your brushes at home except for a single filbert brush. As you progress in landscapes, add and experiment with other brushes.

Step 3

Bring water and rags

Bring lots of water and rags.

Step 4

Set up your easel

In the middle of the day, go set up your easel In a comfortable location that has a good view.

The light changes the least over a given number of hours in the middle of the day.

Step 5

Sketch your drawing

Using the pencil, sketch your painting on your sketch pad. Make only very rough shapes — triangles, arcs, blobs —to give it a general look and feel.

Painting is less about the medium (paint, pastel, pencil) and more about how you create the image. Drawings use lines. Paintings use shape.

Step 6

Work out values

When you’re happy with the composition, it’s time to work out the values, or lightness and darkness. On a scale of 1 to 10, choose a key object with a middle value.

Step 7

Eye the composition

Eye your composition, or structure. What’s lighter than the object you chose? What’s darker? What’s in between and by how much?

Step 8

Choose values for all other objects

Using that value as your key, begin choosing values for all of the other objects in your composition.

Step 9

Color your key object

Once you’re done, turn to the canvas and select a color for the key object.

You will probably need to mix paints to get the value you need.

Step 10

Paint the rough key object

Paint the rough shape of your key object.

Wash your brush thoroughly between colors in your jar of water. Dry on a rag.

Step 11

Paint another object

Choose an object touching your key object. Choose a color and assign it a middle value. Paint its rough shape. Stick to the middle values, avoiding highlights and shadows at this stage.

Step 12

Keep painting

Keep working around your composition until you’ve blocked off the whole piece.

Step 13

Appraise composition

Step back and look at your composition. Does it feel right?

Step 14

Assign and develop contrast

Now go back in to your piece and begin assigning and painting colors with more accurate values for ever-smaller shapes around the piece. Your contrast will begin to develop.

Start with lighter values, then move toward darker values.

Step 15

Add shadows

Add in your shadows in. Generally, you’ll want a cooler color. Avoid pure black.

Step 16

Add highlights

Finally, add the highlights. These will be something in the family of the color of your light source, but avoid pure white.

Step 17

Sign and date the painting

When you’re satisfied with your painting, sign the front, and, when it’s dry, use a marker on the back to identify the title, place, and date.

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Oil Painting

Read the following topic on the Steps on creating an Oil Painting. Take note of important words to add in your vocabulary. WATCH the VIDEO about this lesson.

VOCABULARY (Words to learn its meaning/definition):

PALETTE – A flat plate used by artists to mix paint
CANVAS – A White Cloth stretched on wood where the painting will be placed
SUPPLIER – Person/People who provide specific things
BRITTLE – Can easily break
CADMIUM – A Chemical Element (Cd) that is found in some oil-based paint.
SANDPAPER – A paper material with rough sandy/grainy texture used to smoothen surfaces
LINSEED – a seed of the Flax plant, Linseed oil is mixed with oil paint to give more content
TURPENTINE – a liquid solvent used to remove paint, or mix with paint to make it more watery or diluted
EVAPORATE – when liquid turns into gas
THINNER (noun) – a liquid solvent used to dilute or remove paint, another name for Turpentine
MINERAL SPIRITS – Liquid material taken from minerals or rocks
LINT-FREE – Having no dust, tiny particles or lint
LEAN – Thin but strong
ELASTIC – flexible and easily changing characteristic
STROKE – a line or mark created with a pen or brush
CLARITY – Clear and sharp looking view
GLOSS – Shiny and glazing
MOISTEN – Slightly wet
SOLVENT – a Liquid that can dissolve another to form a solution

You Will Need

oil paints
paint brushes
A canvas
A palette
Linseed oil
A palette knife
Turpentine or Thinner
A cup
Rags

Steps

Step 1

Buy quality oil paint and brushes

Buy oil paints from an art supplier, where well-formulated oil paints are less likely to dry yellow and brittle or harden in the tube. Get sable brushes of various shapes and sizes.

Keep in mind that paints with cadmium will dry in days rather than hours.

Step 2

Pretreat with gesso

Pretreat an already stretched canvas with gesso. To further fill pores and smooth the surface, use fine sandpaper, and cover a second time. Once the gesso dries, sketch your scene.

Step 3

Squeeze paint on palette

Set the canvas on the easel. Squeeze out the “fat” or thick paint from the bottom of the tube onto the palette.

Step 4

Mix linseed and mineral spirits

Mix linseed oil into the darker colors to be used on the under-painting, since it dries better. Use the palette knife to work in mineral spirits to make the paint lean and elastic.

Essential oils like turpentine evaporate well and are good thinners. Resins and balsams add clarity and gloss.

Step 5

Brush lightly

Use a light hand when applying the paint, and a wider stroke when applying more medium.

Step 6

Correct mistakes

Correct mistakes, wiping away the paint with the palette knife and use a turpentine-dipped, lint-free cloth to finish removing. When you repaint, sand that surface first and moisten it with a touch of mineral oil.

Step 7

Clean brushes as you paint

Dip the brush in a cup filled with a small amount of turpentine to clean as you paint. Dry the painting in light whenever possible, as daylight cures the colors better.

Painting thinner layers over a thick drying layer will distort the surface of the painting.

Step 8

Finish session

Wipe your knife and handles with rags when you’re finished. Stir the brushes in solvent, but don’t soak them overnight. Scoop leftover globs of paint from the palette so that the surface is smooth for the next round.

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Painting with Acrylics

Materials

  • A Canvas
  • Acrylic paint
  • Brushes
  • Rags
  • A Palette
  • A Pallette knife

Steps

Step 1

Choose a surface

Choose a surface for your painting. Canvas is the most common, but wood, masonite, and many others are also used.

Step 2

Pick your colors

Choose only a few colors, mixing them for countless shades.

Step 3

Buy basic brushes

Buy a few basic brushes: a large gesso brush to prepare canvas, a fine round brush for detailed work, and a flat inch-wide brush.

Splurge for better brushes. Cheap ones tend to shed hair.

Step 4

Prepare the canvas

Prepare your surface with gesso to make it smooth. Apply an even layer and let it dry. Lightly sand and repeat until your desired smoothness is achieved.

Step 5

Use a medium to dilute acrylic

Use a medium, such as a gel retarder or gesso primer, and water to dilute acrylic paint. It will help prevent cracking, and your painting will last longer.

Mediums also add texture to your acrylics.

Step 6

Add to your collection

Add a palette knife, fan brush, and other tools to your collection to create your personal style.

Did you know? Medieval gesso was a mixture of plaster of paris, white lead, and red clay for color.